France's wild frontier

Gérard Gauby established this domaine in the foothills of the Pyrenées, cherishing the spot for the freshness and expression it produced in these old vine whites. This is an esoteric blend, including Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino, among many others. The 2016 is their current release, showing how much Le Soula believe in the ageing potential of their wines. Notes of greengage, fennel and orange blossom on the nose, with a taut yet intense palate. Totally delicious.

Le Soula sits at 660m up in the eastern Pyrenées, which its makers refer to as ‘terroir d’altitude’. Talented winemaker Gérard Gauby sought this cooler climate up in the foothills for its freshness, and since 2001 has been producing some captivating, long-lived, and characterful wines from this unique outpost. This blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache is sappy, juicy and well balanced, with notes of tapenade and leather. Decant before serving to let it open up.

“Sea and Mountains” is an evocative name, and goes some way in describing this wine’s salty, poised balance. And a bonkers label featuring a cow floating above the sea and mountains, airborne by colourful balloons, goes some way in describing the unusual and off-the-beaten track nature of this domaine, and this wine. At just 12.5% abv, with a savoury texture and light but juicy, crunchy berry flavours, this is a brilliant aperitif red.

At just 12.5% abv, translucent in colour, and with a peppery, herby freshness on the nose, this might not be what springs to mind for the warm climes of the south. The palate has that sweet, silky flow of sun ripened fruit, so that it manages to be both restrained and indulgent all at once. The altitude of the Côtes Catalanes are the secret to this style. Tiny volumes mean this has remained a well-kept secret. It is well worth discovering.

The raw and ruggedly beautiful wind-beaten hillsides of the Pyrenées as they dip into the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea produce tiny quantities of intensely flavoured wine from gnarled old vines. This has such a rich and complex nose, its flavours range from mango to wild tarragon to salted peanuts all in one swirl of the glass. There is astonishing, salty concentration on the palate; it’s hard to believe this is only 12.5% abv. It is in a perfect moment of maturity right now.

This domaine is recognised as one of the finest in the south of France, and has emerged as one of the most sought after names in the fine wine market. Its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Counoise, Mourvèdre, and Syrah achieves a formidable concentration and intensity in this unique corner of the Languedoc. Full bodied, with the aroma of wild herbs, dark berries and spice, this will evolve magnificent complexity with time. Rightly considered among the greatest wines of France.

This is surely one of the quirkiest blends around. Its backbone of Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small dash of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, echoes a classical Bordeaux. But its peppering of Tannat, Pinot Noir and a string of rare varieties set this wine apart. Add to that the wild, garrigue-strewn landscape of the Hérault, and you have something altogether unique. The tense and sappy freshness of this 2019, with defined, textural tannins, are marks of yet another brilliant vintage here.